My favorite infectious bacteria is Rhizobium. The reason is simple. This microscopic bad boy buffs up my garden soil, and what garden nerd doesn’t want better soil? Here’s how it works.

When certain legumes - beans, peas, lentils, clover, vetch - are inoculated (read “infected”) with *Rhizobium*, nodules form on the roots. These root nodules are little dynamos converting atmospheric nitrogen, acquired via the leaves, into useable nitrogen that goes into the soil. This marvelous bit of botanical wonderment is called *Nitrogen Fixation*.

Inoculating your legumes with Rhizobium bacteria is a breeze since there are plenty of commercial inoculants available. These inoculants are usually a fine powder, and are applied to the legume seed just before planting.

The most best way to inoculate legume seeds is the Slurry Method. The inoculant powder is mixed with water or a liquid “sticky” solution (e.g 10-20% sugar water mixture) to form a watery goo. Seeds are coated with this slurry just before planting.


IMPORTANT POINTS REMEMBER WHEN INOCULATING YOUR LEGUMES
- Select an inoculant recommended for the legume you are planting.
- Never use chlorinated water to mix the slurry.
- Plant seeds within 24 hours of inoculation.
- Keep soil most else the Rhizobium bacteria will die.
- Buy fresh inoculant each year.
- Inoculate winter legume cover crop seeds such as clover and vetch.
- Never mix inoculant with fertilizers, pesticides, or lime.
- Store inoculants according to manufacture recommendations
- Do not expose inoculant to direct sunlight or high heat.
- Wash hands thoroughly after inoculating seeds.

Commercial Rhizobium inoculants are sold in most nurseries and seed houses. Some are called “Seed Inoculant” or “Soil Inoculant”. Burpee calls their product “*Pea and Bean Booster*”. Whatever product you choose, Rhizobium will give your garden soil a cheap and easy shot in the arm.